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FEED ME! Food Features by Kitty Kaufman

The Magic Chef:
Royal Bengal

Some writers are just plain lucky when it comes to getting assignments. For me, family owned businesses are most fun: figuring out why they succeed, how they win out over competitors, what keeps them fresh, and why we keep coming back. Over and over it turns out that a combination of hard work, service, location, and luck work their magic to make one business stand out in a crowded field whether it's restaurant or retail.

Gita and Sadhan Mazumdar, proud owners of Royal Bengal, have found that equation. Four years ago they opened in Cambridge between Central Square and MIT. They've gotten several very good reviews from the Globe and as you would expect, their Harvard and MIT neighbors swamp the 32 seats. But they are known beyond their Mass Avenue locale as specialists in authentic Bengali and Northern Indian cuisine. And for that, and the all-Bengali lunch buffet weekends, their fans keep returning.

One wintry evening Sadhan is in the kitchen, Gita is greeting old friends, and Amit, their son, is taking our order. He is patient and gracious like his parents, listing ingredients and preparations. It is no trouble to explain, make suggestions and then tailor our selections. The regulars at a table just behind us selecting favorites, knew exactly what and how to order. And how nice that on a busy Saturday night there was time to spend with us.

When I spoke with Sadhan earlier that day he had already finished preparing a buffet for 100 people (all before 11 a.m.). He said, "I am like the magic chef." As a small child in Calcutta he watched his mother cook and soon, they cooked together. After, he came to the States working in other people's kitchens. He tells me, "This is my love. It makes me happy in my heart and it is a blessing to me."

The Northern menu is comprehensive; appetizers (samosas, pakoras, tikka, naan, and soups), tandoori (mixed grill, lamb, chicken, shrimp, fish, kebab, and achari) lamb (masala, bhuna, saag) seafood (curry, dal, korma) and combo dinner plates. The lunch buffet ($6.95) is served weekdays.

The Bengali buffet ($7.95 weekends only) had daal lentil, cabbage curry, goat curry, tandoori chicken, haddock masala, fried fish, vegetable pakoras and samosas, with several chutneys. The regular Bengali menu, which is available every day, has vegetarian selections along with signature fish, goat, egg, and chicken.

We liked our curry, tandoori, samosas, and papadon, the spicy lentil wafers that are perfect for dunking. There were the usual beers along with Taj Mahal, Kingfisher, Magic Hat and wine. Lunch begins every day at 11:30 a.m. and dinner starts at 3:00 p.m. through to 11:30 p.m. Please note: Mondays, there is lunch only.

© February 16, 2005 for The City Shopper
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Kitty Kaufman kkaufman@corp-edge.com