Boston: Eastern Standard
It's on One for the TableLet's Eat by Kitty Kaufman, photos by Julie Moffatt

Fried calamari appetizer is our personal taste test. Eastern Standard's is lightly coated with a side of aïoli, never messed with peppers, tomato sauce, garlic or peanuts. Of all the fried calamari we've had, this is five-star. When Dilusha and I come for lunch, before we're seated, she's already got it ordered. It pairs with their Bibb salad and of course they're able to find perfect heads I rarely see in the best markets.
Dilusha orders the best things always. She chooses Faroe Island salmon. Once again, there are dueling forks over the bean salad. Julie starts with mushroom soup decorated with brioche croutons and lucky for me, two spoons. After soup, there are moules provençal with Kiralyudvar Tokaji Furmint Sec (KEE-rye-oohd-var), a white Hungarian grape. Our waiter also pours tastes of Hirsch Grüner Veltliner. Other by the glasses: Cristalino Brut Cava, Wimmer Czerny Blanc de Noirs, Nicolas Cole Merlot-Cabernet, and Henri Milan Grenache-Syrah.
That's not all: on draft, there's Peeper Ale from Portland, Notch Session from Ipswich, Anchor Steam and 21st Amendment from San Francisco. I counted nine Belgians, four Germans, five vintage brews, bottles from Stingo, Brooklyn Lager, Left Hand Milk Stout from Colorado, Hop Notch from Salt Lake City, Stone Ale from Escondido and 30 other beers.

Service is leisurely, friendly and nearly immaculate. In addition to wine, we get Florentine almond cherry squares and no, they're not on the menu. (Lauren was practicing?) Even better, they know from grownup music. We can think of hundreds, thousands of places that must stop in for a tutorial on pairing music with food. Since the hotel offers 24-hour room service, you can get served in the restaurant till 1 am. Next time we'll start with dessert. (I know someone who does this.) How could we not with mousse, seven layer cake, fruit crisp, and ice cream "churned daily." Kenmore Square now is never boring and we're sure the agile New York vibe is intentional.
December 2020: So sad that Eastern Standard is no more, along with Island Creek Oyster Bar and The Hawthorne. The best block for eating and drink is gone and it has nothing to do with a virus. Just the weasel boy landlords. Let no independent merchant rent one foot of space from them ever. Chains, too, if they'll listen. Maybe the Hotel Commonwealth will leave?
Eastern Standard
528 Commonwealth
Boston, MA
617. 532. 9100
© November 28, 2012 for One for the Table
Write to us:
Kitty@corp-edge.com
Share it on X Twitter:
Tweet
See Boston restaurant stories via One for the Table on Zomato
Locanda Del Lago in Santa Monica
Italian Western
Santa Monica Seafood Cafe
Fine kettle of fish
Boston Museum of Fine Arts
Food, and art
Ming's Blue Ginger Wellesley
Red hot and blue
Deli after Dark Dedham
Yes, we have no meatballs
Sophia's Grotto
Meatballs and calamari in Roslindale
Pon Thai Bistro
Pon cooks with fire
Island Creek Oyster Bar
Happy, happy new year
Amelia's Trattoria in Cambridge
New York state of mind
Cafe Sushi in Cambridge
Industry standard
Black Trumpet in Portsmouth
Ta dah
Flour Bakery
Eat dessert first
Kitty@corp-edge.com
Share it on X Twitter:
Tweet


Italian Western

Fine kettle of fish

Food, and art

Red hot and blue

Yes, we have no meatballs

Meatballs and calamari in Roslindale

Pon cooks with fire

Happy, happy new year

New York state of mind

Industry standard

Ta dah

Eat dessert first