Boston: Grill 23 is going on 30
It's on One for the TableLet's Eat by Kitty Kaufman
Back in 1983, Grill 23 opened with what was, for then, a great deal of fanfare. I don't remember being there in the '80s; to be clear, not my eighties. I mention to my sister-in-law Ellen that I'm writing about it and she recalls working at Harvest, St. Botolph and on to Grill 23. This is what she says: "It was busy from day one. The service was impeccable. We were all so very well trained. It was the first of its kind in Boston: the end."
We're splitters but not tonight. I have my own burrata which they describe as crispy eggplant with stewed tomatoes. The bartender calls it "our version of eggplant Parmesan." Which you could say it is except that it has mozzarella and no Parmesan. It's crisp and topped with fresh tomatoes which make all the difference. We also have fried calamari with pepperoncini cream which is big for a starter but perfect if you need something to go with your sidecar.
Salad and bread can be barometers for what's to follow and this basket has novel starters. Grab the salted, buttery flat crisp cracker. Caesar salad is made just for me. It's a keeper and with no room for dessert, I manage to finish what's left of the bread.
There's beef tenderloin, steak frites and pot roast; grilled salmon with scallion pancakes, mahi mahi, sea scallops, swordfish, and à la carte: filet, bone-in New York, 18 oz of 100-day aged rib eye, Kobe, and lobster from Maine.

We love that there's no music. No music. You can have an actual conversation. More than likely it will come with secrets.
Grill 23
161 Berkeley Street
Boston, MA 02116
617. 542. 2255
© January 4, 2013 for One for the Table
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Kitty@corp-edge.com
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Kitty@corp-edge.com
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Italian Western

Fine kettle of fish

Food, and art

Red hot and blue

Yes, we have no meatballs

Meatballs and calamari in Roslindale

Pon cooks with fire

Happy, happy new year

New York state of mind

Industry standard

Ta dah

Eat dessert first