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FEED ME! Food Features by Kitty Kaufman

Just For the Halibut: Pine River Fish Market
This is a whale of a tale. Eel yet? Got a haddock and feeling a little crabby? Joe Dusvitch has heard them all and more, as you might suspect, as owner of Pine River Fish Market. Up to his elbows in lobster and in no time at all he fires back: "Eat fish for the halibut."

Pine River is family-owned and operated for 15 years. Dusvitch sells fresh fish, lobsters, oysters, clams, mussels, steamers and hard to find things like eel, periwinkle and sea conch. "What we're famous for," Dusvitch says, "is cooking the crabs outside. Did you know that in the old days, there were guys who went around Chelsea and East Boston selling crabs from a pushcart; three crabs for a nickel?"

In another day, it would not have been so unusual but Pine River has the distinction of having been in the same location for 50 years. He and his mother, Stephanie Dusvitch, work together seven days a week, while dad, John, runs the Lobsterquest restaurant and market in Ossipee, NH. Why seven days? "Five years ago there were several markets but they've all gone out of business. The competition now is supermarkets so you have to have quality fish at the right price."

At press time his chicken lobsters were $6.49 which, he says, "is pretty changeable at this time of year." Still, it seemed worth it to us that if you're planning a beach party, it's worth the trip to Revere. They will pack lobsters to go and better, put together a clam bake including lobsters and steamers that are ready to cook.

What's the best thing about being in the fish business? "It's authentic. We're old school, kind of like turning back the clock. We're a small shop and the same customers come back every week. Last week I had a guy coming over from Framingham for ten crabs because he wouldn't go anywhere else but here. He broke down on the Pike and he had to get towed. Instead of getting towed home, he got towed here and then had AAA tow him home."

You will find Joe and Stephanie Dusvitch at Pine River (781) 284-9863 Monday-Thursday 9-6, Fridays 9-7, Saturdays and Sundays 9-5. On your way out of town, stop in for a lobster pack. Dusvitch says: "We do a lot of travel business. We're the last stop before Logan. Well pack your lobsters for domestic and overseas trips."
© July 5 and December 27, 2006 for The City Shopper
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